Cruise Travel on Baffin Island
In Search of Wildlife in Canada’s Arctic Like Polar Bears and Whales
Sep 26, 2008
It’s a bright day with chilly wind and the captain announces a polar bear sighting on the starboard side of the ship. Passengers dash out with their cameras flung over one shoulder, trying frantically to sling their jackets over the other. Coming up is a work-of-art iceberg with a polar bear lounging nonchalantly on it.
As the ship gets nearer, the bear languidly lifts its head up and looks quizzically at the large vessel. Slowly, it decides that it might be in trouble and lumbers to the edge, probably terrified of the flashing cameras and crowd of excited people.
Taking what almost looks like a sigh, it jumps into the water and starts paddling away. Every few moments it pauses to look back, hoping it doesn’t have to swim all the way to the next iceberg.
Polar Bears, Whales and Walrus, Oh My!
That same afternoon, 30-40 bowhead whales surround the ship while going through Isabella Bay (future site of the Bowhead Whale Sanctuary). You might see the same ones if you visit, as they can live up to 200 years. Looking out from the upper deck, passengers see sprays seemingly every few feet, as slick backs and then flukes arc out of the water.
Days like this are common aboard Adventure Canada’s trips, a Canadian expedition company specializing in arctic cruises. You pass by landscapes that look like creamy chocolate truffles lightly glazed with sugar, or ultra white icebergs that look more like modern art than ice. Typical conversations run like this:
“Look at that!”
“What?”
”Just, that!” as couples, singles, young and old flap their arms at the vast panorama and stare in astonishment at the wilderness.
Adventure Canada Cruises
Celebrating its 20th year, the folks at Adventure Canada have made cruising fun. There is no sipping martinis on the poolside deck; instead, you have a drink and sing-a-long with your fellow travellers, often making lasting connections. On boats with just over 100 passengers, pretence gets left behind with the oversized baggage.
Some even go so far as to call this anti-cruising: not only do passengers learn from the many educational presentations, they mix and mingle over casual meals, wet zodiac rides and shared “Ah ha!” moments out on the magnificent tundra.
President Matthew Swan sums it up quite succinctly, “We’re still excited to go places.” The staff are just as curious and eager to be on board as the first timer passengers. Biologists, culturalists, musicians, artists and public figures join in on the fun and are the leaders in encouraging passengers to let loose. Polar dip, anyone? Memorial Hank Williams Dance? Staff are the first to jump into the arctic water or don cowboy gear (or kilts!) for a special occasion.
Tips for Seeing Wildlife
- Always have your camera handy (and even your jacket), as polar bears and bowhead whales won’t wait
- Spend as much time on the outer decks as possible, as sometimes wildlife can come and go by the time the captain announces a sighting and passengers make it outside
- Bring binoculars, as seeing wildlife close up is a real treat
As a passenger in her 60’s commented on the cruise, “What a life altering experience, and this is my second time!” That about typifies the special expeditions that Adventure Canada runs. And with global warming melting the ice at faster rates than ever seen before, it makes trips like these a little more valuable.
Travelling in Nunavut
Adventure Canada (1-800-363-7566) runs cruises to Baffin Island and beyond throughout the year.
Nunavut Tourism (1-866-686-2888) can help with travel arrangements and answer questions about the north.
The Canadian Tourism Commission (604-638-8300) can help plan the rest of your trip throughout Canada.
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